Chez Cul de Paille delivers
In its juice for more than half a century, Auberge Chez Cul de Paille remembers the passage of hundreds of celebrities on its walls studded with signatures. His owner Pierre Goubault and author Gérard Simmat tell his story in a documented book.
End of the meridian break in Cul de Paille. At a distinguished inn at 3 rue Théophraste-Renaudot in Poitiers, a woman gets up and takes out her phone to take a photo of the walls. In what other Poitevin restaurant can we witness such a scene? If the faded partitions could talk, then they would sit down to eat, recounting the evening spent here by cycling champion Fausto Coppi in 1955 – the first to sign -, the huge meal at Coluche, the two extraordinary passes of Brela, Brassens, Juliette Gréco, Didier Ier Roi de la Basoche, Raymond Devos, Guy Bedos… As it did not work, the head of the place Pierre Goubault – since 2014 – fell in love with Gérard Simmat to say “real story” inn, the former den of the “chairman” Louis Duranceau and surrounded by about 220 certified signatures.
“Looks like a cemetery”
The result can be tasted with pleasure like pork confit in Pietra beer by Chef Benjamin Courgez. “We didn’t want a book of recipes because there are already many of them, assumes the presenter. I am very attached to this inn, that’s why I bought it from the Faure family (Georges, then Bernard) who have owned it since 1956. We can tell stories in other ways than through the plate. “Therefore Signature[s] places Chez Cul de Paille in the history of the town, tells how a small pawn shop became an institution, and is full of anecdotes. This one, delicious, at the moment Michel Galabru exclaims “How worrying! », passing through the door. Why, Bernard Faure then asks him: “With all these signatures, it looks like a cemetery”, the actor answers. The cemetery is still more than alive, maintained by Pierre Goubault and his teams. “Every two years we bring in a calligrapher so that the signatures don’t change”says the boss.
Never in fashion and therefore timeless, Chez Cul de Paille still attracts transient personalities. Like Edouard Baer, Bertrand Belin, Jean-Pierre Foucault or even François Morel, down to his joy of scribbling alongside famous elders: “Between Jean Marais and Bourvil, I’m not in a bad place… thank you! » There are celebrities, but also everyone else who keeps the hostel alive throughout the year. Some, like the writer Gérard Simmat and others, have made it their daily canteen. And others will no doubt imitate them tomorrow, Pierre Goubault is delighted about it. “The history of the inn soothes people, soothes”, the manager wants to believe. Drink as much and eat to your heart’s content!
Signature[s]the true story of the inn Chez Cul de Paille in Poitiers – 160 pages – Price: €25. Available in Gibert, at the inn…
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